Saint-Boniface & Louis Riel

Across the river from the Canadian Museum for Human Rights (or Human Misery as some might say) is Saint-Boniface. At one time Saint-Boniface was its own municipality but it has long been a ward of Winnipeg. Its population is about 55,000 and it remains the centre of the francophone
community in Manitoba.

L'Hôtel de Ville de Saint-Boniface

Saint-Boniface has a old world charm all its own, and features historical landmarks like l'Hôtel de Ville de Saint-Boniface, Université de Saint-Boniface and Cathédrale de Saint-Boniface.

Université de Saint-Boniface

The Université de Saint-Boniface is a French language post-secondary institution affiliated with the University of Manitoba. Its origins date back to 1818 and it is Western Canada's oldest post-secondary educational institution.

A stone's throw from the university is Cathédrale de Saint-Boniface, which also dates to the early 1800s when it actually took the shape and style of a log chapel. The first cathedral was built in 1832 and it was destroyed by fire in 1860. Rebuilt a few years later, it was replaced in 1906, and that building was largely destroyed by fire in 1968. Today only the façade, sacristy, and the walls of the old church remain.

                                                                                                                                                                Within the cemetery of the old church we found the tombstone of one of Canada's greatest politicians, Louis Riel. Riel was born in Saint-Boniface in 1844. It is a rather unassuming resting place for the founder of a Canadian province, indeed for one so much involved in the early history of our nation.

Louis David Riel was the political leader of the Métis people of the Canadian prairies and he led two resistance movements against the Canadian government and its first prime minister, Sir John A. Macdonald.

Riel sought to preserve Métis rights and culture as their homelands in the North-West came under Canadian influence.The provisional government established by Riel ultimately led to the terms by which Manitoba entered Confederation as a province. But there were complications, including the execution of an anglophone soldier, and Riel went into exile south of the border.



In 1884 Riel was called upon by Métis leaders in Saskatchewan to voice their grievances to the federal government in Ottawa. Instead he organised a resistance movement that escalated into a full scale military confrontation: the North-West Rebellion of 1885. Canada used the new Canadian Pacific rail lines to send in thousands of combat soldiers. The rebellion ended with Riel's arrest and conviction for high treason. Rejecting many protests and appeals, Prime Minister John A. Macdonald decided to execute Riel by hanging. The order was carried out on November 16, 1885, in Regina.








Riel was portrayed for years in history classes as a crazy religious fanatic and a traitor against the Canadian nation, but that view has changed over time. He is now seen as a heroic leader who fought to protect francophone rights from the unfair actions of an anglophone central government. Sometimes seen now as a Father of Confederation, he was in fact fiercely committed to Métis nationalism and political independence.

Fascinating stuff. And if ever you find yourself in Winnipeg, see the Museum, but also walk around Saint-Boniface and see all that it offers, including the amazing story of Louis Riel.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

Café Postal in St. Boniface

Along busy boulevard Provencher, and just over the pedestrian bridge that connects Winnipeg with St. Boniface, is a delightful coffee shop called Café Postal.















It's small, en français of course (about ten percent of Winnipeg's 750,000 people speak French), and it serves Pilot Coffee. The beans are ground and weighed for every espresso drink.




Friendly and inviting, Café Postal gives off a gentle feel-good vibe. There's indoor or outdoor seating, which makes this is great spot to stop and regroup after visiting the Museum of Human Rights across the river. And after a visit to that place (the story of human rights is one of misery on a grand scale) a good strong coffee is just what you need.









The coffee is excellent.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

MAKE Coffee + Stuff ~ in Winnipeg

MAKE is a small coffee shop on Corydon in Winnipeg. It is quiet and minimalist, and best suited to those drinking coffee by themselves. Alone.
















Seating is uncomfortable at best, but there are many electrical outlets for laptops and other devices.

It was opened with the desire to offer an espresso bar plus a venue for design exhibition and retail. "MAKE seeks to provide an opportunity for the public to engage with the profession of design."










So it's not a place to meet as a group. It is a quiet, unadorned space in which to work, and to enjoy coffee and tea. And in that it succeeds nicely.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

After the debate... John Steinbeck has the perfect comment

After enduring the painful presidential debate last night between the two most unpopular candidates to run for America's highest office since polling began...  and thinking: Is this what passes for democracy in the Excited States? Is this the result of the bold experiment promised by John Kennedy, the goal of democracy for all the world's peoples? Donald Trump? Really?






I was reminded of a quote found in John Steinbeck's Cannery Row:

"It has always seemed strange to me...The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, understanding and feeling, are the concomitants of failure in our system. And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, egotism and self-interest, are the traits of success. And while men admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second."

When money becomes everything in politics, when celebrity becomes something to emulate in our society, and when both are rewarded generously, should we be surprised by what is happening in America today?

Steinbeck was the author of 27 books, including 16 novels, six non-fiction books, and five collections of short stories. His books include Cannery Row (1945), East of Eden (1952), Of Mice and Men (1937) and the Pulitzer Prize-winning The Grapes of Wrath (1939).

Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

Arabesque Hookah Cafe ~ in Winnipeg

In the Osborne & Corydon Village area of Winnipeg, on the second floor of an unlikely looking building, is a new restaurant called Arabesque Hookah Cafe which Sherry discovered a few days before your faithful correspondent arrived.













Arabesque has thirteen definitions in Arabic. The most popular refers to a decor of interconnected togetherness and that seems to be what it's all about: bridging Middle Eastern culture and cuisine in the heart of Winnipeg.

There's a Japanese restaurant on the first level of the building, with Arabesque being a non-wheel chair-accessible stairway to the second. The purple theme is inviting and soothing at the same time.






We were here for lunch and friendly service and delicious food was the order of the day. The mint tea was wonderful.

The owners, as Sherry came to know, however briefly, are a couple who want to give back to the community they call home, and they provide opportunities to new Canadians, including refugees from Syria, to work in the restaurant. It's an inspiring business model, and one to support.








Arabesque is Halal, with meat, chicken and vegetarian dishes available in generous portions. If only they served wine.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

Canadian Museum for Human Rights

The Canadian Museum for Human Rights is an impressive undertaking. Originally the dream of the late Winnipeg-based media mogul, Izzy Asper, it opened in 2014 after years of debate and controversy. According to the Act of Parliament that set up the Museum:

The purpose of the Canadian Museum for Human Rights is to explore the subject of human rights, with special but not exclusive reference to Canada, in order to enhance the public's understanding of human rights, to promote respect for others and to encourage reflection and dialogue (Museums Act).

Whatever that means.






It's an amazing place, with lots of open space, many interactive displays, and a flow that leads one through the various themes easily.

Six different levels, many exhibits, not enough time. Fortunately as one goes up to each new level, the floor space becomes smaller.

The Dirty War in Argentina is passed over rather lightly as is past US intervention in Latin America generally, and the war crimes committed during the American War in Vietnam.






How Canada deals with First Nations peoples is represented through a variety of displays and some are emotionally moving. The word genocide is not used to describe the way Europeans interacted with the Indigenous peoples of Canada and the western hemisphere.

However, there is this telling quote from a government official:

I want to get rid of the Indian problem... Our objective is to continue until there is not a single Indian in Canada that has not been absorbed into the body politic...

The Holocaust and the genocide of Rwanda are in the exhibit called Abuse of State Power. Putting it mildly.



I didn't see any mention of the Palestinian people and their plight, which seems odd in a museum dedicating itself to human rights. Nor is the issue of poverty given adequate exposure as an impediment to human rights. State abuse is shown to be a problem while the abuse of people by corporations is not.













The last part of the Museum, is an elevator to the top level for a view of Winnipeg from the Israel Asper Tower of Hope.

The Museum has its shortcomings, but it's essential viewing when in Winnipeg.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.

Fools & Horses Coffee ~ in Winnipeg

Not far from the Manitoba Legislature we found another great independent coffee shop called Fools & Horses.











The shop is done up in that elegant austerity style we've seen in other coffee shops. There's a full espresso bar that features Pilot Coffee as their anchor bean.








Interesting sandwiches include brisket on toast. Well, why not brisket on toast?






Service, like everywhere in Winnipeg, is friendly and efficient.



In the afternoon Fools & Horses offers wine, spirits and beer, including brews from emerging and established Manitoba craft breweries. The whiskeys include the hard-to-get Northern Harvest Rye from Crown Royal; reason enough to spend an entire day.

And, the coffee is worth lingering anytime.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2016 by Jim Murray.