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March 14, 2013

Papa argentino ~ Pope Francis


We learned of the election of Jorge Mario Bergoglio while riding in a taxi late yesterday afternoon. It had just been announced on the radio, and while the taxi driver admitted to being only a once-in-awhile church goer, he was excited at the fact of a Latino, and an Argentino, being chosen to head the Church.

According to news reports, Church doors throughout Argentina were opened as people arrived to celebrate the news.




This morning all the papers were filled with stories and photos, as were the radio and television channels. Generally it is all extremely positive.

Some however are raising the issue of where this priest stood during the time of the military juntas of 1976 through 1983, when 30,000 people disappeared.







The journalist Horacio Verbitsky, in an interview with the Washington Post, suggests that many Argentinians will be conflicted about the new pope's past, especially during the Dirty War. He has reported that Bergoglio, as head of the Jesuit order in Argentina at the time, lifted Church protection for two known leftist priests, who were then arrested by the military dictatorship.

"He portrays himself as popular, almost revolutionary, a man who goes into the ghettos. But when the military came to power, he did not protect his own." - Verbitsky

At best the new pope was silent and failed to speak out against the Junta. At worst he was complicit. In a nation as political as is Argentina, this question will be debated in the days ahead.


And to keep things in perspective it should be noted that while this is a nation where 92 per cent of the population identifies with being nominally Roman Catholic, only 20 per cent at best can be considered practicing members of the faith.



As for our taxi driver, towards the end of our journey, he pointed with pride at some Beatles pins hanging from his rear view mirror, and said in English, "For me, John Lennon is God."  

Amen.

Copyright 2013 by Jim Murray.

Mendoza Wineries ~ Bodega La Azul


Bodega La Azul is a radical departure from O. Fournier. Gone are the massive buildings and the huge property. Gone too is the space port roof. Like O. Fournier, this winery is family owned but in this case by Argentinos.











This is a small operation without the buildings, property and security. There is a delightful cafe that serves vegetables and fruits from its own garden. Simple, rustic and almost pure feeling, this winery is relatively new, beginning only ten years ago in 2003.




There is a laid back, old world charm to La Azul that is quite appealing. Hobbled together, one can only imagine the struggle to get it started, and to keep it going.





The tastings are simple affairs without fancy art on the walls of the building. And the tasting is done in the same place as is the entire wine making operation; the barrels, stainless steel vats, everything.








Here Sherry gets a sample of some wine, still in the barrel and it is delicious.







Visit this winery at bodegalaazul.com


Mendoza Wineries ~ O. Fournier


One day last week, we took a drive, with our wonderful driver Walter Nievas. We drove along famous Ruta 40 towards the Andes and the Valle de Uco to visit three different wineries. It was a short drive, only about 150 km. Perhaps a bit more advance consultation with Walter might have been wise, but here we are.




Our first visit was to O. Fournier, which is a temple to wine. Built in 2000 by a Spanish family group that has holdings in Spain, Argentina and Chile with ownership of 435 hectares, of which 160 are now in production. This is a family group with serious plans and deep pockets indeed.





A prominent feature of the O. Fournier structure is the roof with its wild space ship landing pad image. This winery has a capacity of 600,000 litres with an underground cellar capable of holding up to 2800 barrels.



A theme here is the Southern Cross, the star group only visible to those in the southern hemisphere. That image is reflected in the branding of the wines (Alfa Crux and B Crux) and in the beautiful cellar. There is a spiritual feeling in this place, and it is intentional.












Our host was a young winemaker named Mario, who delighted in sharing his thoughts during the tasting, and in inviting ours as well. Winemakers tend to do that, ask your opinions about the tasting, and it is an important part of understanding what your customers like. Imagine, asking a customer what she actually thinks of the product.


Art works appear in the cellar and the tasting room. Those in the tasting room change over the course of time; they are rented in the company's effort to support local artists. The only permanent piece is that to the left. There is something unique about the work, and if you look more closely you discover it has been created by working entirely with plasticine.














Nice wines and a beautiful operation with a first class restaurant and plans to build a hotel and spa. Those deep pockets again.

And for us, out to the dry wind and back on the road.

Visit O. Founier's website here: www.ofournier.com