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February 21, 2013

La pagina financiera ~ The Financial Page

Argentina's financial state is interesting. As in other countries, the exchange rates for various currencies are posted in the media every day; there is an official rate for Argentinian pesos and the US dollar, and other currencies line up along that standard. But in Argentina there exists, in the open, an illegal rate as well, and that rate is posted in the media as well.

When we arrived at the beginning of January the official rate was just under five pesos to the American dollar. Today, that rate is just over five pesos. The black market rate when we arrived was about six pesos to the dollar; today it is around 7.5 pesos, and climbing. 

Because of the restrictions the Federal Government puts on currency transactions, it is difficult for Argentinians to exchange their pesos for dollars. Therefore the rate they are actually willing to pay is greater than the official rate. Hence the illegal black market rate. Quite simply, Argentinians fear for their currency and have greater faith in that of the US. For some of us, that faith is probably misplaced, but given the inflationary pressures at work in this country, Argentinians, at least those who can do so, seek to protect their savings. Inflation is, according to the government,  currently 11.1 per cent. Most independent economists believe a truer rate of inflation to be closer to 25 per cent and rising. Some economists are estimating an annual rate nearer 30 per cent. The government recently implemented, through talks with various business groups, a short term version of price and wage controls.

How does any of this impact a traveller? Well, in our case it doesn't make much difference. Unless you are willing to travel with a large amount of American dollars and then exchange them illegally on a street corner, you are more likely to use credit cards, or withdraw money from an ATM. You will be charged a fee by the Argentinian bank, and probably by your own bank at home, but it is convenient and safe. And legal. 

It is important to note that Argentine banks will not exchange foreign currency for pesos to non-account holding foreigners. They are happy to do so electronically via their ATMs, and charge about four Canadian dollars for each withdrawal (I am guessing part of that is a federal tax of some kind).

There is talk in the media about the official exchange rate increasing to six pesos by year-end, but by then the real rate, the illegal black market rate that most people will pay, could be closer to nine or ten pesos. There is also speculation that Axel Kicillof, Deputy Finance Minister and economic advisor to the President, would like to introduce multiple rates of exchange, depending on the transaction: for tourists, for travel abroad, for exporters, etc. That sounds complicated, but it might work. With mid-term elections set for October no one thinks any new measures will be in place before then. 

It is also rumoured that President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner would like to alter the Constitution to allow her to run for a third term. In spite of her extremely high popularity in the last election, an amendment to the Constitution will be met with considerable protest, to put it mildly. Argentinos are anxious to see stability in their currency and growth in the economy and there is increasing and wide-spread dissatisfaction with the President's government.
One of the drivers of inflation has been the rate by which the Federal Government has been printing money. Last year the money supply grew by more that 35 per cent, and there is likely to be further spending leading up the election. Public spending isn't a bad thing and it has helped employment rates and produced private spending spin-offs too. The unemployment rate, officially, is under seven per cent, and there are massive works projects, public and private, throughout the city.

Argentina's economy is somewhat closed to foreign companies. There is strong preference for things of Argentine origin. You won't see many apples from Australia or oranges from Florida for example. Nor will you see the shelves of the supermarket filled with brand name over-the-counter medications. Here there are many small farmacias providing all the usual medicines and remedies, often in generic formulations, and offering advice, at low prices. You won't likely see many wines from other countries either; we like our own wines thank you very much. There seems to be an element of protectionism at work in this country.

Direct foreign investment in Argentina is quite low. Last year in Canada and Australia, for example, foreign firms invested 47.2 and 48.5 billions of dollars respectively. In this country investment was only 11.0 billions. Neighbouring Chile saw a DFI of 26.4 billions of dollars last year. Not that foreign investment is necessary if you can raise the funds within your country, and small, resource rich countries like Canada and Australia, apparently cannot. But would Argentina's economy be better off with more investment from outside the country? Recently the giant mining transnational from Brasil,Vale, withdrew its proposal to invest almost 6 billions of US dollars in a project. The company claims problems with the exchange system, while the Federal Government says they would not concede to Vale's demands for tax concessions. 

So what to make of it all? There will be some interesting times ahead, that much is certain. Food on the table, at reasonable prices, is important. Keeping educated young people at home in Argentina is important too, as is welcoming new entrepreneurs into the economy, and protecting the savings of all citizens. As important as is the economy to the Argentine people, so too is the democracy they have created. The strength of that democracy, and the institutions entrusted to protect it, will be critical. 

February 20, 2013

El Obelisco de Buenos Aires ~ The Obelisk


The Obelisk of Buenos Aires is one of the iconic landmarks of the city. Not to be confused with the smaller obelisk located in Plaza de Mayo, this one is 67.5 metres in height and located at one of the world's most impressive intersections: avenidas Corrientes and 9 de Julio.




It was designed by Argentinian-born architect of German immigrants, Alberto Prebisch and constructed by the German engineering company, Siemens, to commemorate the 4th Centenary of the founding of the city. 
Below, two views,  in different directions, of Avenida 9 de Julio from the Obelisk, and one looking towards the Obelisk.





LAN Flight 4027

We were scheduled to return home to BA on Saturday afternoon last. It was to be a short two hour flight, and then, another hair-raising taxi back to the apartment.

We arrived at the airport in good time and boarded the LAN Airbus for flight 4027 with about one hundred sixty others, mainly foreigners. The region had been plagued with weather during our brief stay, which  seemed the norm for the tropical summer. Huge, dark thunderstorm clouds surrounded the airport, just as we experienced when visiting the falls.


Upon take-off we immediately ran into turbulence. That can be expected especially in the heat of a rain forest, and normally I expect things to settle as the plane reaches its cruising altitude above the weather. On this day the turbulence became much worse and it was obvious we were flying into quite a storm cell.

The captain addressed us, calmly, once or twice about the turbulence and to advise us stay in our seats. No one needed much encouragement. About fifteen or twenty minutes into the flight, and still not out of the turbulence, the captain came on again to advise, again fairly calmly, that we were returning to Iguazu immediately. Ice had caused a crack in the cockpit's windshield. He apologised as we banked steeply for a bumpy return to the airport.

Cracks in cockpit windshields are not terribly common, though they do happen apparently. It doesn't take much imagination to think about what might occur at ten or twelve thousand metres, so we were grateful for the safety-first position of our pilot and his honesty in reporting to his passengers.

What happened on the ground in the airport was less attractive, as the LAN agents had difficulty coping with the situation. What we needed was direct and open communication about what might happen with rescheduling our flight. Instead there was general confusion and an inability to communicate much of anything. Effort was made to get some connecting passengers on flights out of Iguazu, but for most of us, it was a long afternoon that turned into an evening, in a small airport, waiting and waiting. The line-ups never seemed to end and never provided any answers. Sherry and I retreated to the restaurant upstairs, partly to get away from some of our fellow passengers. It's amazing how quickly people can move from being grateful for being safe and alive, to being frustrated and angry about an unfortunate, but truly unpredictable situation.

Finally, almost five hours after our flight returned to the airport we were told we would be taken to a hotel for the night, provided with a meal, and returned to the airport the next day for our flight to Buenos Aires.

Twenty-four hours after we were originally scheduled to return to BA, we arrived, this time with only minor turbulence in the air. The taxi ride home was, as expected, full of twists and turns, going through stop lights, and weaving around cars and pedestrians both. But we arrived, safe and sound, and grateful.