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September 13, 2013

Surfing at Long Beach


There is much standing around while surfing. Or so it appears.






Is this wave right? Or should I wait for the next one?





Kind of like finding the right parking space. Should I drive around a bit more? Oh damn. I should have taken the one back there.










For the little time spent riding the wave, much more is spent waiting. And waiting. It seems to be worth it.









Photos by Jim Murray. Copyright 2013.

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