The Murray Chronicles

September 07, 2017

Alert Bay, BC

Alert Bay is on Cormorant Island, which is 4.9 km in length, and 800 metres at its narrowest point. It's an easy walk-about.

The 'Namgis First Nation has the largest population on the island, with 750 people. The Village of Alert Bay has a population of 440 people, and the remainder of the island's population, approximately 250, are of the Whe-la-la-u Area Council representing seven Kwakwaka'wakw Tribes.

Today, there is harmony on the island. The citizens who share Cormorant Island's compact area have developed a philosophy of neighbourliness, and in our brief time here we were impressed by the friendly and outgoing hospitality of the people.

In 1999, and renewed in 2012, the Alert Bay Accord, between the Village and the 'Namgis First Nation, was the first agreement of its kind between a municipality and First Nations Band in Canada. It describes common goals and pledges mutual support in civic and cultural matters affecting both jurisdictions.

That mutually beneficial relationship has not always existed.

For thousands of years Cormorant Island, or Yalis, was populated by a great nation of seagoing people who called themselves the Kwakwaka’wakw. One of their most influential sub-groups lived along the rich valley of the river on Vancouver Island and these were the ‘Namgis.

Local history tells the story of strange looking men arriving in 1792 CE. The ship was Discovery and the captain's name was Vancouver. Everything changed.

This island, and the entire region, was rich in furs, salmon, coal, timber, gold and more. There was seemingly an unlimited abundance. The newcomers, took and took and took, and what seemed an inexhaustible resource was depleted.

This is a beautiful place. The people are wonderful. There is still fishing, and trapping, and much more. Though not in the same way as before the invasion.

During one of our walk-abouts, Jeem was invited to go fishing with a First Nations group and had to decline as we were leaving the same day. The invitation stands. And we hope to return.

September 06, 2017

Arriving in Alert Bay & Pass'n Thyme

It was a generous two hour drive from Campbell River to Port McNeill. None of us had been north of Courtenay so after a slightly forgettable night in Campbell River, we drove up island and boarded a ferry to Alert Bay.

Our lawyer friend and colleague, BT Mendlebaum joined us, and our public relations and crisis management consultant, G. G. Blynn, came too.

Apparently "peeking" is forbidden on the ferry to Alert Bay

We were walk-on passengers as Cormorant Island is easily walked, or wheeled in the case of our friend Blynn.

Of course Jeem "peeked" and had to explain himself to the Chief Steward. And then our lawyer (disbarred), BT Mendelbaum, intervened and things went from bad to worse.

The Main Drag with BC Ferries on the right

Alert Bay is the main settlement and a population of about 1500. More than half the population are First Nations peoples, and this is traditional Kwakwaka'wakw territory.

Alert Bay reminded us of Dawson City, where we spent three winter months several years ago. The buildings, the colours, the rustic charm, remind us of a time long ago, yet very much of today.

We checked into the lovely Pass'n Thyme Inn, which is a brief walk from the ferry terminal, but then again, everything is a brief walk from the ferry terminal.

Pass'n Thyme Inn, as does most of the village, overlooks Broughton Strait and stunning views of Vancouver Island's beautiful mountain ranges.

Our room was around the back and up some stairs and not entirely accessible for Blynn who stayed in a room on the street level. With Mendlebaum. Our room was better than the website photos would suggest.

Pass'n Thyme boasts a wonderful restaurant and at night it's especially busy with townsfolk and outsiders too. The cuisine is what one might expect, served with a dash of adventure. Come for the people; warm, friendly, inviting. Conversations abound. If someone is celebrating a birthday, you might even get a piece of cake.