"Can I get you a taxi?"

A few nights ago we walked to Las Canitas, an area near our apartment. It is a small neighbourhood that is one of the current hot spots for portenos, with many restaurants, bars and clubs, all side by side along a few blocks. We enjoyed having a great meal at a parrilla, outdoors, at 10 pm, watching the people go by, on foot and by car. It was hectic, alive and charming.





Today we returned for some shopping and a late afternoon lunch. It was quiet and peaceful. The crowds of the night before were gone and the cafe and bar staff were only just beginning to get ready for the coming evening.


For lunch we stopped along the popular Baez strip. We had some ceviche, a Peruvian dish of raw fish cooked in lime juices. It is wonderfully tasty.

When we finished our meal, our friendly wait person asked where we were from, to which we answered, "Canada." I'm always happy to correct any impression we might be American. Our waiter smiled appreciatively and we then elaborated as best we could en espanol.

"We are from Vancouver. On the west side of Canada. On the Pacific. 

He smiled again. "Oh yes. Pacific. Yes. Yes. It is beautiful, no?

"Yes, it is, and so is Buenos Aires," we answered.

Our nice wait person came back with "Would you like a taxi?"

"To Canada?" we asked.

"Yes. To Pacifica in Canada."

"Ahhh.... No, that's okay. Hmmm... We will walk."

Sometimes it's just too difficult to explain.

San Telmo y La Brigada

Buenos Aires is a great place in which to walk, and many portenos do just that; in parks, in malls, along busy shopping avenues and in the various neighbourhoods that make this such an amazing city.

San Telmo is an older part of BA, home to the city's wealthiest until an epidemic in 1877 sent the rich to higher ground, leaving the area to the poor. Today it has a rundown appearance and remains home to immigrants and poor people. 

It is also home to its famous mercado and street market. The mercado, housed in a large building covering an entire block is part fruit and vegetable stands, part fast food, and a good part: flea market. 

San Telmo is also home to a fair number of anglophone expats from various places around the world. One tends to hear English spoken more readily here, though not necessarily by the shopkeepers. There is a certain element of fun in this neighbourhood and the shopping is much more relaxed than along busy Florida, which I wouldn't recommend to anyone. 

                    

                                                                                                                                                                                                             
On a nice Sunday afternoon and early evening, when we were here, this neighbourhood buzzes with life, music and  excitement. Crowds, to be sure, but somewhat more relaxed. In some cases. Hey! Isn't that Kevin Falcon from the BC Liberal Party?

And, as often happens, we pause for a moment... to consider la carta, this time at a wonderful parrilla in San Telmo called La Brigada, which we found quite by chance. This place boasts great service, terrific portions of beef, and fantastic surroundings, with guacho and futbol memorabilia throughout its two floors.                                                                                          

                                                                                                         

And when you've finally finished your two hour lunch, which started at 2:30, and if you are truly nice, you are shown to door and given a gentle hug by your waiter, Jose, who has been with the restaurant for 14 years.

La Brigada was great.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2013 by Jim Murray.

The end of the line ~ Subte linea A

On December 1, 1913, the Southern Hemisphere's first subway line opened in Buenos Aires. At the time it was only 11 km in length. It greatly aided in alleviating the traffic congestion in the rapidly growing city.

                      

Until today, yes today, Linea A has moved over 200,000 people each day. Today, the line is closing for a two month period for upgrading and new carriages, and Jeem decided to take a ride, back and forth on the Linea A. Several times.

The stations along the route tend to be old. Slightly darker than the others and there is a feeling of falling back into time. It seems safe enough, but Jeem kept wondering, "Is that Tommy Dorsey playing on the speakers?"

The carriages are darker too, and feature wooden seats and benches. They were built in Belgium before being put into use on the Subte. There is significant nostalgia for the old cars and they are an amazing piece of subway history. 

It can be darker than most subway cars we are used to riding. Quite a bit darker.

In two months, give or take, BA will have new carriages for Linea A. They will be safer, brighter, and built in China. And that is unfortunate for Canada's Bombardier. But portenos will celebrate.

Photos by Jeem. Copyright 2013 by Jim Murray.

El Rosedal

El Rosedal, near our apartment in Palermo, is a rose garden. It is part of a much larger park system called the Parque Tres de febrero (also known as Bosques de Palermo, meaning Palermo Woods).

The rose garden covers 3.5 hectares and features 18,000 rose buses.

The entire park is an oasis from the heat and humidity of the city and many people come out in the early evening to walk, cycle, jog or silly walk.

                                                                                                                                                                                                     
The rose garden features numerous art works and the busts of 26 dead poets and writers. The writer to the left, is not.

The Subte

The metro or subway system in Buenos Aires is called the Subte. It is inexpensive. In fact a trip costs only 2.5 pesos, about 50 cents Canadian. It is fast, clean and easy to navigate, all things being relative of course. In truth it is those things and also: hot, crowded and only confusing if you don't know where you are going, and that never applies in our case of course.

Our nearest station is called Palermo, and it is also a major train station.

The Subte in BA has six lines, the first being built in 1913. The lines cover more than 60 km and connect with a light rail network called the PreMetro and an suburban rail system as well. Altogether the rail system covers nearly 900 km and carries over 700 million people every year.

"You might be standing a bit close there Jim. No really."

And after a leisurely and comfortable Subte ride downtown, with friendly conversationalists, it's time for a rewarding walk along a peaceful avenue. 

Then again... maybe a nice cold drink at a shady outdoor cafe. Maybe some agua mineral con mas gas. Yes, that sounds much better.